nikimro: Icehotel in Swedish Lapland

Shortly after arriving back from Oman, I was already getting excited for my next trip to the Icehotel in Swedish Lapland 9200km North of the Arctic circle). However news of a potential British Airways strike, which would impact my flight to London did send me into a bit of a tailspin. Luckily, the British courts rescued Christmas from the Unions! Dave, Iain, Gareth and I met up at Heathrow for our SAS charter flight to Kiruna in Sweden on the 29^th December. After a 5 hour delay at Heathrow, we arrived in blisteringly cold weather and transferred to Jukkasjarvi, 200km North of the Arctic circle, where the world famous Icehotel is situated. The Icehotel is constructed to a new design every winter as it melts back into the river Torne every spring. This year was the 20th anniversary of the Icehotel!

We jumped off the plane in Kiruna at -28C and hurried inside the airport as we were definately not dressed for those temperatures. I must thank the Girls for the down jacket you gave me for Kilimanjaro - it was a lifesaver at those temperatures! After checking in, they supplied us with a much needed one-piece thermal suit, hat, gloves and boots! Many asked us why we were heading to the Arctic circle in winter when it is dark and cold, with only 3 hours of polar light each day. “To see the Northern lights”, I say! Unfortunately, they were hidden behind the clouds for our entire stay and it's apparently been a bad season for the Northern Lights. But now I have another reason to plan a trip to see them! Not that I have ever needed an excuse..

For the first 3 nights we stayed in warm accommodation and our last night (after New Year’s Eve) was in the chilly ice hotel. The morning after we arrived, we clambered out of warm beds and explored our surroundings before joining our Husky Sledding Tour.

There are more dogs than people in Jukkasjarvi (1200 dogs to 800 people) and I loved the sled ride through quiet forest trails. Mush Mush! The scenery was breath taking: snow laden trees, frozen rivers blanketed in white and the moon rising on the horizon. However it was freezing at -35C, regardless of the fact that I was sandwiched between the three guys for wind protection! We stopped halfway to defrost by a campfire and made a short stop for coffee and cinnamon buns ( frozen cinnamon buns, I might add) .. very necessary, I tell you!

On the way back to the Icehotel, Gareth gave Iain some reprieve from the cold and sat in front of the dog sled. However his scarf had already frozen around his face and his eyelashes had little crystals forming at the ends! When we reached camp, stiff and frozen as we were, I don't think any of us has run so fast for the warmth of our cabin! Once we had returned our body temperatures to normal, we headed to our normal haunt: The Lobby bar, for hot chocolate and reindeer sandwiches. Yum!

Later that evening, we hopped on snowmobiles and sped off across a frozen lake in search of the northern lights. It was freezing still at -37C and apparently the windchill from being on a snowmibile at speed would have take the temperature down to approximately -60C!! Alas it was still cloudy so we didn't get to see the infamous lights, however, we stopped for a traditional dinner of Moose stew and some hot Ligonberry juice at a wilderness hut. A The following day was slightly more relaxed as we geared up for New Years, although we did head off on horseback in search of moose and reindeer. Gareth was also determined to locate Santa’s daughter! Alas, the latter was not to be. Once at the stables, we harnessed and groomed our horses before setting off. Mine was a gorgeous little pony called Brenna. The guys nicknamed her the dwarf as she was slightly less of a steed than the rest. She may not have been able to see out of her stall, but she was raring to go! Guys should know it's not just size that counts.

That evening we counted down the final moments of 2009 as we indulged in port and champagne, had a gourmet dinner in the icehotel restaurant, snow fights, followed by drinks in our cabin and then vodka shots and live music in the Absolut Icebar.. and some interesting dancing to cheesy old tunes! Just before midnight the Grader symphony commenced, where a Swedish girl sang to a background of grader ballet. Although I think by this stage I had had a little too much champagne so fear I did not fully appreciate the finer artisitc merits of the Grader symphony. After midnight there was fireworks and wishing lanterns and I decided it was time to retire for the night and let the boys have some fun! Too much champagne for me! The next day we recovered from our hangovers... recovered from hangovers.. recovered from our hangovers.. and, oh yes, explored the icehotel rooms and art suites which we were staying in that night. There was much talk as to who would win the bet and get to cuddle with me .. the joys of travelling with three men!

The Icehotel is maintained at a chilly -5C and we had to strip down to a single layer of thermals, our boots and beanies and run the gauntlet (through the open air and into the hotel) with our sleeping bags which are fit to cope at temperatures of -50C. Once we'd found our rooms, the race was on to get your boots off and get into your warm cocoon before you got too cold. The sleeping bags zip right up to your chin leaving a small circle around your face to allow one to breathe. I had a great nights' sleep and awoke with a start the next morning as one of the hotel staff bought us hot Ligonberry juice as a wake up call. A wonderful way to end an amazing holiday..