Wednesday, November 12, 2008

White River Rafting on the Zambezi














Backroads of Botswana

In need of adventure, Kim Ticknerand I decided to join a trip up through the backroads of Botswana to Vic Falls in Zambia. There was a group of 18 of us and our 3 Zimbabwean guides (Innocent, the all knowing tour guide; Mishak, the gourmet bushvekd chef and Dumi, the driver). Together, with our big orange overland truck we set off early on Monday morning from Pretoria for the border post, to cross the Limpopo River and enter Botswana. Our ultimate destination being Khama Rhino Sanctuary at Serowe, where we camped inside the sanctuary at Mokongwo Camp, surrounded by throusands of hectares of Kalahari sandveld. There was much hilarity at our first attempt of assembling the tent, but we soon got the hang of it! Before heading out to Maun the following day, we explored the rhino sanctuary and went for a game drive. Later that day in Maun, we had to stock up (and repack) for a next two nights to be spent camping in th Okavango delta. Aside from the 10 litres of water per poerson, it was a tough squeeze to pack everything we'd need for the next 3 days in a daypack! Early the next morning, we headed out into the Delta to meet the polers of the Okavango Poler's trust. They are comprised of local fishermen, who provide a real delta experience. Laying back in a mokoro for the 90 minute trip to camp and being gently propelled through the tranquil waterways of the Okavango Delta was a fabulous experience.

Upon arrival, we quickly set up camp and headed off to find the local swimming hole. It consisted of a gap in the reeds in the Delta, and after a little trepidadtion, we headed on in to the cool water. Many swims were had over the next few days, where we were visited by elephants. But it was only on the final day that Kim and I quickly exited the water upon hearing a hippo grunt! Whilst in the Delta, we went for game walks, sunset mokoro rides (to visit the Hippo Pools - 20 hippos 100m away when you're in a wee wooden canoe with nothing but a wooden pole to get you out of danger..hmm) and often got to watch the elephants wondering around the back of our camp! One had to be wary of stumbling upon one's neighbours during a midnight bush toilet stop! On our final night in the Delta, the polers sang and danced to introduce us to their traditional songs. Being a multi-national group, we had few songs in common, so instead we taught them the chicken dane and the hokey pokey! quite a sight when the polers joined in and we were all dancing like chickens round the camp fire! After 3 days in the delta we headed back to Maun, where all I could think about was a hot shower and something cold to drink. Later on after a Savannah or two, we hopped on a very little plane (6 seat Cessna) for a sunset flight over the Okavango Delta. Stunning views over the delta system and as the pilot dipped low a number of times, we got to see a lot of game! A hectic g-force type turn had a few feeling queasy! As a group, we decided to take the head Poler (Jo) along to see his world from above. Initially he was scared and barely looked out of the plane, aside from brief glances to confirm game sightings, however he loved the experience once he realised the plane was not going to drop from the sky. I am sure for the 23 year old Jo, who learnt his amazing English from Tourists, that this was a story that would be re-told to his mates around the camp fire that night! The next morning we hopped on the 'African school bus' to head from Maun to Kasane to camp on the banks of the Chobe River. During the drive we passed between two large salt pans - the Nxai Pan to our left and the Makgadikgadi Pan to our right. We saw amazing wildlife in Chobe National Park, which is also known throughout the world as Africa’s greatest elephant sanctuary. Game drives, sunset boat trips along the Chobe River, watching elephant and other animals coming down to drink – what an incredible way to spend and end the day!
After Chobe we headed further North to Zambia, to see the awesome Victoria Falls. We arrived and quickly headed off to do some white river rafting. It was so much fun and I can't wait to head back for a repeat experience (even coming out at rapid number 18 in true style). Early the next morning, before we headed back to SA, Kim and I headed to Livingston Island to jump into Devils' pools right at the edge of the falls. After swimming 50m across the top of the falls, we headed in to sit on the edge of the falls and lean over!! Amazing to see, but best to stay away from the slippery edges..