Koh Samui, Thailand

Friday night (24 November 2006), I jetted out on Bangkok airways to Koh Samui on the east coast of Thailand. After making my way to Matlang resort, situated on the Northern part of Chaweng Beach, I was rather chuffed to be shown to my own little rustic, beach front bungalow. Sea view, aircon, stepping onto the beach from your front door - all for only 1000 Baht a night (15 GBP). Not bad.

The next morning I found my 'possi' on the beach and settled in for a day of my book on the beach, interspersed with dips in the sea to cool off. Blissful. Late Saturday afternoon after my day on the beach, I headed along to the Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts, where I tried my hand at making a traditional 'red hot' curry paste and a few different versions of the curries in an afternoon cookery course. At the end, our group sat down with a few bottles of wine and demolished everything we'd made. Scrumptious stuff, I tell you.

The next morning dawned bright and early and I headed along the beach for an early morning walk, long before the revellers from the night before had arisen. Nice to have to place virtually to one's self.

After breakfast, I headed to Kandaburi spa for my final taste of Thai massage, along with a few other spa treatments that I just could not resist. Amazing how such simple things can make you feel so amazing. I have always said that I was a women with simplified tastes..

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Being picked up at 3.30am ain't my idea of fun, but in order to catch my ealy morning JetStar Asia flight out to Siem Reap, Cambodia on 17 November 2006 - a girls gotta do what a girls gotta do! Landing in Siem Reap at 7am provided an amazing view out over all the temples and I started to get rather excited. I think I now finally know how the 'Vaalies' must have felt landing in Durban, when they leaned over me to catch a glimpse of the coastline and yelp, "Kyk ma, daars die see". I however, opted for a more quiet form of admiration but the impression was no lesser in magnitude. Siem Reap means Siamese defeated - rather cheaky for a city so close to Thailand.

At the airport, I met my guide and after dropping my day pack (Dad - you'll be pleased to know that I am refining the art of packing light) at the hotel, we headed out tour to Small Circuit of temples, including Prasat Kravan (Cardamon sanctuary), Banteay Kdei, Srah Srang (Royal Bath), Ta Prohm (Jungle Temple), Takeo, Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda. That afternoon I got my first taste of Angkor Wat.

And as the sun started to slip, we headed up onto Phnom Bakheng Hill for a dusky view of Angkor Wat. Amazing and mystical and the onset of darkness only enhanced that. The ancient Khmer dynasties had some inspired architects among them. I had dinner at a traditional Cambodian restaurant that evening and what I thought I'd ordered for starters turned out to be totally different. Papaya salad turned out to be Scorpian Salad with a bit of papaya thrown in. Fear Factor Cambodian style and I was greatful that they were not alive. Going with my motto of I'll try anything once, I did try some, but lets just say that I did not clean the plate. Scorpian does not taste like chicken and leaves a rather bitter, almost acidic after taste.

The next morning was another early morning rise to get the traditional sunrise view of Angkor Wat, hopefully before most of the other temple seekers have arisen. I staumbled thorugh the gates in the dark, my path illuminated thanks to Sony Ericson and headed for the library steps, just off the path where most were standing. In the quiet, still morning I was one of the most breathtaking sun rises ever, to just sit and watch the magnificent temple slowly come to light. After breakfast and a much needed coffee, we made off for the South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon, Baphoun, Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King.

The South gate of Angkor Thom is the most intact and I hopped on an elephant to ride through the gate and head for Bayon. The temple with its 49 towers and smiling faces was a labyrinth of passages and stairways. Climbing to the top, I came to the conclusion that the ancient Khmers had tiny feet as the stairs literally just go up and it's best to walk crab-like, sideways up or down - kind of like a Siem Reap shuffle.

Later that afternoon, I headed off to visit the Grand Circuit / Angkor Wat including Pre Rup (Change the body), East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Preah Khan and Baksei Chamkrong. I climbed up through the various enclosures of Angkor Wat, until I finally reached the ascent to the main temple. I literally had to scramble up using hands and feet and barely looked down. Coming down was an interesting affair best done backwards, but I did stop and turn as I was coming down to watch the sun set as I exited the temple. Dinner that night comprised a delicious Amok fish curry complete with a Khmer Traditional Dance Show, and some Angkor beer. No Scorpians thank goodness. Flying out of Siem Reap the next morning I got another view of the Angkor layout and it's amazing how perfectly symmetrical everything is. From the huge sqaure moat that surrounds it to the placement of the towers. Fascinates me - just like how the Egyptians constructed the pyramid tunnels at exactly 45 degree angles.

A Bedfull of Foreigners

After arriving back from Cambodia and having a few hours of R&R, I headed off to the Raffles Hotel for the British Theatre Playhouse production of 'A Bedfull of Foreigners'. The play, which could be described as a French version of ”Fawlty Towers” is set in a French hotel in a small village near the German border. An extra bonus was a women I have previously met, Corina Powlesland, was playing the role of Brenda Parker - and did she do it fabulously! The play was really great and it was great to have a reminder of British theatre while in Singapore!

One night in Bangkok

One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster

The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free

You'll find a god in every golden cloister

A little flesh, a little history

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble

Not much between despair and ecstasy

Rather harmless lyrics, but never a truer word spoken when in Bangok. Siam conjures up images on elegance, grace and mysticism in times gone by. But the modern name Bangkok is definately fitting. Connotations are endless: 'ping pong' balls, ladyboys, tuk-tuks, scams, hunting around in the numerous markets and the list could go on. One's experience in Thailand all depends on where you go and what you stumble upon. All I know is that my time here was too short and I'll be back. My first taste of Thailand in the last few weeks shall definately not be my last.

Arriving on Friday night (10 November 2006), I made my way to "Buddy's Lodge" on Khoa San Road. Winding my way through the masses and the traffic, there is a tangible vibe and almost a taste of adrenaline throbbing in the air. I spent the evening exploring my surroundings and met an Irish girl, Fiona who was also in town for the weekend. We ended up exploring some night spots and had a Singah beer or two. I was up early the next morning to hop aboard a long boat to make my way up to Ayuthaya, Thailand’s ancient former capital. The journey by river was so relaxing and presented amazing views of some of the many temples and sites along the way to the Palace of Kings.

Located 53 miles north of Bangkok Ayuthaya was Thailand’s capital from 1350 to 1767. Only a hint remians of what must have been breathtaking before the Burmese had there way.

Some chaps that I met in Phuket recommended a restaurant with a view for while I was in Bangkok. So I headed off for the banyan Tree Hotel for dinner at Vertigo. Vertigo is unlike any other bar-cum-restaurant in the world: some 61 floors above the streets of Bangkok, this open-air rooftop lounge grants views that simply take your breath away.. and it did.

Panoramic views, the dazzling lights, a bit of Nina Simone type jazz, a glass of cabernet and the entire evening to unfold at my leisure.. I was in heaven, or pretty close to it.

The Grand Palace complex was on the agenda for Sunday, with a stop at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Keow) and Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho). The Grand Palace was breathtaking and you almost felt like you were stepping back in time to 'The King & I'. Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera.

After I got back from the Grand Palace, I headed to the infamous Chatuchak Market, where bargaining is mandatory and choice is unlimited. My bags were suitable heavier than when I arrived and if there ever was an extreme version of Retail theraphy - this was it!

Colonial Chic

A spot of lunch at Raffles Hotel - all really, rather superb dahling. Found a spot at the Long Bar for people watching and to soak up some colonial charm. All that was missing was my 'Man Friday'.

Hanging out in Hong Kong

I landed in Hong Kong late on Friday, 3rd November, and headed for my accommodation in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island. Arriving in Paterson Rd, in one of the renowned shopping districts, I was amazed to see the neon buzz and the heaving streets, topped off with Bamboo scaffolding everywhere. Not just something one sees in Jackie Chan movies!




On the Saturday, I hopped on board a ferry for a ride through Sulphur Channel, close to Green Island and Peng Chau Island in order to make my way to Silvermine Bay, Lantau, which is the largest island in Hong Kong. First on my list was the 26 metre outdoor giant bronze Buddha, presiding above all from his seat on a lotus throne atop a 3 platform altar. Rather an amazing sight.


After the hike up the stairs, I headed for Po Lin Monastery. The Monastery is situated high in the mountains and I was treated to a scrumptious vegetarian lunch served by the monks. Before heading back to Hong Kong Island, I stopped off at Tai-O-Fishing Village for a taste of good old traditional life. After a quick stop at my hotel in Causeway Bay to freshen up, I headed to Queens Pier to jump on board a Chinese Junk for a cruise at sundown in the harbor. The Hong Kong skyline looked amazing all lit up and it was great to just relax onboard with a glass of wine in hand!



Onboard I met some Americans, who were out doing some work for Energiser. Rather entertaining conversation and I joined them for dinner after the cruise. We ended up at some local joint for a taste of the infamous "Smelly Tofu". Foul..

Sunday, I took took the tram for a ride up to Victoria Peak for a almost birds-eye view of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the surrounding islands. Still a little hazy, it was a beautiful sunny day and the slight mistiness did not detract from the impact of the legendary Hong Kong skyline.

After ascending from the peak, I then headed to the famous fishing village of Aberdeen to see the 'floating community' and jumped onboard a Sampan for firsthand experience of waterborne life. Last but not least, I jumped on a bus that went past the beautiful Repulse Bay, before heading on to Stanley Market.

Great fun was had wondering through the stalls, and I managed to get two large street scenes done in oil for the equivalent of GBP24. Not too shabby. While I was wandering through Stanely market, I was given a brief Cantonese lesson: Ho (phonetics) means good; Mmm Ho means no good, Ho Ho means very good and Ho Ho Ho means very, very good. Although try saying Ho Ho Ho without feeling like Santa - feels like Christmas with only 8 weeks to go!