China

I arrived back from China on Sunday morning, rather fresh even after 22 hours of travelling and an 8 hour time difference. Business class does help! It was an amazing 8 day trip, starting in Beijing for 4 days, then catching the overnight train (not that much sleeping was done) to Xi'an for 2 days, before flying into Shanghai for the last 2 days. As per the Katie Melua song, there are indeed 9 million bicycles in Beijing. They are everywhere in every shape and form and carrying all manner of things and in places the cycle paths rival the width of the roads. But when you notice that most cyclists are wearing face masks to minimise inhalation of the thick smog (the Chinese being optimists, like to call it fog and blame it on the weather rather than there emissions policies) you quickly decide that this would not be a preferred form of transport. Especially when crossing a road requires more then a 'look left, right and then left again'. Rather it's look every which way and pray as you dash forth across the road.

The first thing that struck me (after the fact that extreme poverty and overcrowding is as real as CNN says) is how brand conscious the Chinese are. No wonder the knock off market has flourished so. Everything down to the Prada face masks is branded (regardless of whether Prada sells face masks) and once you have your Bargaining skills down, the Beijing Silk market is the place to go. After a few thrilling hours amidst calls of, 'Lookey, Lookey Lady', 'You killing me with that price', I walked away with Chloe bags at £5 and no one has been able to tell the difference. That was not all I walked away with, but that's a secret between me and my luggage. Nearly bursting at the seams, but as my pack had only weighed 14kg at the start, I had a bit of room to play.

For my trip, I had joined 11 others on a Kumuka trip and turned out to be an amazing group of people. Mainly Aussies from Perth (two doctors and some engineers from BHP Bhilliton), a Brit, 2 Kiwis and an American called Ginja. Whilst in Beijing we made stops at the Great Wall for a day, the Temple of Heaven, the Ming Tombs, the Summer Palace, a rickshaw ride through the Hutongs, Tienamen Square and the Forbidden City amongst other things. The Great Wall was a definate highlight in Beijing. The sheer magnitude of it and the fact that it just kept going and going amazed me. After numerous photos, climbing up onto the tops of the buttresses along the wall and clambering up never ending unevenly spaced stairs, we eventually made our way down in search of coffee. For all the tea in China, coffee is scarce. Good coffee near impossible.

Our daily meals usually consisted of a vast array of dishes ordered off a menu I couldn't read (thank goodness for Yearick (our guide) and Trina and Jono who spoke enough Cantonese and mandarin to get us by). When they arrived, it was generally pot luck. I seldom knew what I was eating and sometimes didn't want to. Generally the food was really great though and for £2.50 a head, o one was comlaining. Let's just say that nothing goes to waste in China. Every part of an animal is used. By the time it neared to go home, I was looking forward to Bovril on Toast. Traditional Peking duck was a definite highlight.

Leaving Beijing for Xi'an we joined the masses and caught an overnight train for the 11 hour journey. The standard of accomodation in the sleeper carriages was great (althogh playing poker whilst drinking Chinese beer ensured minimal sleep was had by all) although the train station was another experience altogether. Chain smoking old men joining your group to stare, beggers who tried to cling to you and people who just stared at you and sniffed; all of this made me clutch my bags to me all the tighter and say a small prayer of thanks that my passport was attached to me under layers of clothing.

The next morning we arrived bright and early and set off to explore the city wall of Xi'an. Over shadowed by the Great Wall, this amazing all goes right around the old town for 14km and is twice the width. We had a great cycle along it to wake us up a bit. Aside from the Wild Goose pagoda and a gorgeous Chinese style Mosque, the highlight of Xi'an was definitely the Terracotta Warriors. The life size Warriors built upon the instructions of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who became the first emperor of all of China by uniting the provinces through blood thirsty war, was clearly a touch paranoid about his enemies coming after him in his next life. Over 6000 warriors alone in the first site, with two other sites serving as army command.

Once we'd finished in Xi'an, we flew in to Shanghai, once again shrouded in a haze of smog. So thick that we could barely make out the famous skyline when we paid a visit to the bud at the riverside. Later that day, we then headed to the Yu Gardens and then the Jade Buddah Temple for a traditional tea tasting ceremony. At the end of the day, we headed out for the final supper and a touch of kareoke in true Chinese style. They all think they can sing there. Pop Idols would be a hit. The next morning before heading to the airport to make the journey home, it was great to know that I shall deinitly be in touch with friends I had made. Awesome people.

Saying Goodbye to Singapore

Extract from an e-mail sent:

With my final week in Singapore drawing to a close, I thought I'd drop you all a line before I head off to China and before we all get swept up in the festive swing of things. It's been an amazing experience being here and I won't pretend it's all been rosy. The weekend travel has been amazing, with Thailand, Cambodia and Indonesia being literally on my doorstep. And I am looking forward to China, minus the spitting affliction they have. It's all on this blog, but my highlights include:

• Climbing the steps of Angkor Wat as the sun was setting;
• The dolphins off the coast of Bali;
• Amazing Thai massages;
• The Grand palace and Wat Pho in Bangkok; and
• The Hong Kong Skyline.

Blissful in Bali

On recommendations from my Mom and Nasia, I headed to Bali for the weekend (1 to 3 December 2006). I had decided to splurge on a bit of extra luxury and booked into one of the resorts on Nusa Dua beach. And was it worth it!! Saturday morning was spent lounging on the beach enjoying the fact that I had no where to go, nothing to do and no one to see. After I'd indulged in my idleness for long enough, I headed off to the village of Guligan to walk in the traditional terraced Rice fields. Really gorgeous, lush green countryside. After leaving Gulingan, I made my way to the Royal Temple of Mengwi - Pura Taman Ayun. Dating from 1634, this temple complex is surrounded by a moat, and contains many multi-roofed meru shrines, complete with intricately carved wooden gates.

Next up was the sacred Monkey Forest, which is set amongst a cluster of towering trees and is home to hundreds of monkeys. Although monkeys are nothing new, having lived in Durban most of my life, the sheer volume of them was rather daunting. Memories of being chased by monkeys in Leisure Bay did enter my head. Before heading back to my hotel, I stopped at Tanah Lot, famous in Bali as the Sunset Temple. The black lava towers of the sacred 16th century temple, built on a lava rock 200 meters off shore created an impressive silhouette against the setting sun. Almost a perfect end to the day - topped off with a glass of wine and dinner at the beach front restaurant.

Sunday was another relaxing day although it started off with an exhilarating speed boat ride out off the coast of Nusa Dua to see hundreds of dolphins frolicking in the water. Fresh air and sunshine were exactly what my body had been craving. Best I enjoy before heading to colder climates in China next weekend.

Koh Samui, Thailand

Friday night (24 November 2006), I jetted out on Bangkok airways to Koh Samui on the east coast of Thailand. After making my way to Matlang resort, situated on the Northern part of Chaweng Beach, I was rather chuffed to be shown to my own little rustic, beach front bungalow. Sea view, aircon, stepping onto the beach from your front door - all for only 1000 Baht a night (15 GBP). Not bad.

The next morning I found my 'possi' on the beach and settled in for a day of my book on the beach, interspersed with dips in the sea to cool off. Blissful. Late Saturday afternoon after my day on the beach, I headed along to the Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts, where I tried my hand at making a traditional 'red hot' curry paste and a few different versions of the curries in an afternoon cookery course. At the end, our group sat down with a few bottles of wine and demolished everything we'd made. Scrumptious stuff, I tell you.

The next morning dawned bright and early and I headed along the beach for an early morning walk, long before the revellers from the night before had arisen. Nice to have to place virtually to one's self.

After breakfast, I headed to Kandaburi spa for my final taste of Thai massage, along with a few other spa treatments that I just could not resist. Amazing how such simple things can make you feel so amazing. I have always said that I was a women with simplified tastes..

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Being picked up at 3.30am ain't my idea of fun, but in order to catch my ealy morning JetStar Asia flight out to Siem Reap, Cambodia on 17 November 2006 - a girls gotta do what a girls gotta do! Landing in Siem Reap at 7am provided an amazing view out over all the temples and I started to get rather excited. I think I now finally know how the 'Vaalies' must have felt landing in Durban, when they leaned over me to catch a glimpse of the coastline and yelp, "Kyk ma, daars die see". I however, opted for a more quiet form of admiration but the impression was no lesser in magnitude. Siem Reap means Siamese defeated - rather cheaky for a city so close to Thailand.

At the airport, I met my guide and after dropping my day pack (Dad - you'll be pleased to know that I am refining the art of packing light) at the hotel, we headed out tour to Small Circuit of temples, including Prasat Kravan (Cardamon sanctuary), Banteay Kdei, Srah Srang (Royal Bath), Ta Prohm (Jungle Temple), Takeo, Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda. That afternoon I got my first taste of Angkor Wat.

And as the sun started to slip, we headed up onto Phnom Bakheng Hill for a dusky view of Angkor Wat. Amazing and mystical and the onset of darkness only enhanced that. The ancient Khmer dynasties had some inspired architects among them. I had dinner at a traditional Cambodian restaurant that evening and what I thought I'd ordered for starters turned out to be totally different. Papaya salad turned out to be Scorpian Salad with a bit of papaya thrown in. Fear Factor Cambodian style and I was greatful that they were not alive. Going with my motto of I'll try anything once, I did try some, but lets just say that I did not clean the plate. Scorpian does not taste like chicken and leaves a rather bitter, almost acidic after taste.

The next morning was another early morning rise to get the traditional sunrise view of Angkor Wat, hopefully before most of the other temple seekers have arisen. I staumbled thorugh the gates in the dark, my path illuminated thanks to Sony Ericson and headed for the library steps, just off the path where most were standing. In the quiet, still morning I was one of the most breathtaking sun rises ever, to just sit and watch the magnificent temple slowly come to light. After breakfast and a much needed coffee, we made off for the South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon, Baphoun, Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King.

The South gate of Angkor Thom is the most intact and I hopped on an elephant to ride through the gate and head for Bayon. The temple with its 49 towers and smiling faces was a labyrinth of passages and stairways. Climbing to the top, I came to the conclusion that the ancient Khmers had tiny feet as the stairs literally just go up and it's best to walk crab-like, sideways up or down - kind of like a Siem Reap shuffle.

Later that afternoon, I headed off to visit the Grand Circuit / Angkor Wat including Pre Rup (Change the body), East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Preah Khan and Baksei Chamkrong. I climbed up through the various enclosures of Angkor Wat, until I finally reached the ascent to the main temple. I literally had to scramble up using hands and feet and barely looked down. Coming down was an interesting affair best done backwards, but I did stop and turn as I was coming down to watch the sun set as I exited the temple. Dinner that night comprised a delicious Amok fish curry complete with a Khmer Traditional Dance Show, and some Angkor beer. No Scorpians thank goodness. Flying out of Siem Reap the next morning I got another view of the Angkor layout and it's amazing how perfectly symmetrical everything is. From the huge sqaure moat that surrounds it to the placement of the towers. Fascinates me - just like how the Egyptians constructed the pyramid tunnels at exactly 45 degree angles.

A Bedfull of Foreigners

After arriving back from Cambodia and having a few hours of R&R, I headed off to the Raffles Hotel for the British Theatre Playhouse production of 'A Bedfull of Foreigners'. The play, which could be described as a French version of ”Fawlty Towers” is set in a French hotel in a small village near the German border. An extra bonus was a women I have previously met, Corina Powlesland, was playing the role of Brenda Parker - and did she do it fabulously! The play was really great and it was great to have a reminder of British theatre while in Singapore!

One night in Bangkok

One night in Bangkok and the world's your oyster

The bars are temples but the pearls ain't free

You'll find a god in every golden cloister

A little flesh, a little history

One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble

Not much between despair and ecstasy

Rather harmless lyrics, but never a truer word spoken when in Bangok. Siam conjures up images on elegance, grace and mysticism in times gone by. But the modern name Bangkok is definately fitting. Connotations are endless: 'ping pong' balls, ladyboys, tuk-tuks, scams, hunting around in the numerous markets and the list could go on. One's experience in Thailand all depends on where you go and what you stumble upon. All I know is that my time here was too short and I'll be back. My first taste of Thailand in the last few weeks shall definately not be my last.

Arriving on Friday night (10 November 2006), I made my way to "Buddy's Lodge" on Khoa San Road. Winding my way through the masses and the traffic, there is a tangible vibe and almost a taste of adrenaline throbbing in the air. I spent the evening exploring my surroundings and met an Irish girl, Fiona who was also in town for the weekend. We ended up exploring some night spots and had a Singah beer or two. I was up early the next morning to hop aboard a long boat to make my way up to Ayuthaya, Thailand’s ancient former capital. The journey by river was so relaxing and presented amazing views of some of the many temples and sites along the way to the Palace of Kings.

Located 53 miles north of Bangkok Ayuthaya was Thailand’s capital from 1350 to 1767. Only a hint remians of what must have been breathtaking before the Burmese had there way.

Some chaps that I met in Phuket recommended a restaurant with a view for while I was in Bangkok. So I headed off for the banyan Tree Hotel for dinner at Vertigo. Vertigo is unlike any other bar-cum-restaurant in the world: some 61 floors above the streets of Bangkok, this open-air rooftop lounge grants views that simply take your breath away.. and it did.

Panoramic views, the dazzling lights, a bit of Nina Simone type jazz, a glass of cabernet and the entire evening to unfold at my leisure.. I was in heaven, or pretty close to it.

The Grand Palace complex was on the agenda for Sunday, with a stop at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Keow) and Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho). The Grand Palace was breathtaking and you almost felt like you were stepping back in time to 'The King & I'. Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera.

After I got back from the Grand Palace, I headed to the infamous Chatuchak Market, where bargaining is mandatory and choice is unlimited. My bags were suitable heavier than when I arrived and if there ever was an extreme version of Retail theraphy - this was it!

Colonial Chic

A spot of lunch at Raffles Hotel - all really, rather superb dahling. Found a spot at the Long Bar for people watching and to soak up some colonial charm. All that was missing was my 'Man Friday'.

Hanging out in Hong Kong

I landed in Hong Kong late on Friday, 3rd November, and headed for my accommodation in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island. Arriving in Paterson Rd, in one of the renowned shopping districts, I was amazed to see the neon buzz and the heaving streets, topped off with Bamboo scaffolding everywhere. Not just something one sees in Jackie Chan movies!




On the Saturday, I hopped on board a ferry for a ride through Sulphur Channel, close to Green Island and Peng Chau Island in order to make my way to Silvermine Bay, Lantau, which is the largest island in Hong Kong. First on my list was the 26 metre outdoor giant bronze Buddha, presiding above all from his seat on a lotus throne atop a 3 platform altar. Rather an amazing sight.


After the hike up the stairs, I headed for Po Lin Monastery. The Monastery is situated high in the mountains and I was treated to a scrumptious vegetarian lunch served by the monks. Before heading back to Hong Kong Island, I stopped off at Tai-O-Fishing Village for a taste of good old traditional life. After a quick stop at my hotel in Causeway Bay to freshen up, I headed to Queens Pier to jump on board a Chinese Junk for a cruise at sundown in the harbor. The Hong Kong skyline looked amazing all lit up and it was great to just relax onboard with a glass of wine in hand!



Onboard I met some Americans, who were out doing some work for Energiser. Rather entertaining conversation and I joined them for dinner after the cruise. We ended up at some local joint for a taste of the infamous "Smelly Tofu". Foul..

Sunday, I took took the tram for a ride up to Victoria Peak for a almost birds-eye view of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the surrounding islands. Still a little hazy, it was a beautiful sunny day and the slight mistiness did not detract from the impact of the legendary Hong Kong skyline.

After ascending from the peak, I then headed to the famous fishing village of Aberdeen to see the 'floating community' and jumped onboard a Sampan for firsthand experience of waterborne life. Last but not least, I jumped on a bus that went past the beautiful Repulse Bay, before heading on to Stanley Market.

Great fun was had wondering through the stalls, and I managed to get two large street scenes done in oil for the equivalent of GBP24. Not too shabby. While I was wandering through Stanely market, I was given a brief Cantonese lesson: Ho (phonetics) means good; Mmm Ho means no good, Ho Ho means very good and Ho Ho Ho means very, very good. Although try saying Ho Ho Ho without feeling like Santa - feels like Christmas with only 8 weeks to go!